October 27, 2019 A New Driver's License

The process of getting a driver’s license here has been bizarre, to say the least.  My FL license was valid for quite a while, but then I needed a Côte d'Ivoire license or an International Permit to drive legally, and opted for the former.  I had a helper in Yamoussoukro to assist in navigating the process, which was done partly on the basis of my FL license.  I was never sure if this was an official pathway or one created just for me.  It began with presenting my passport, FL license, and a wad of money.  I also gave my index finger for an electronic fingerprint, provided my medical record with blood type, and did a vision test.  That was round 1.  

Thanks for your help Bishop Gbalo!

I had to go back to Yamoussoukro (3 1/2 hours away)  a couple of weeks later for the code exam.  My guide neglected to mention that I should study the code book, which I have not yet seen.  The exam involved waiting around a lot, then going into a room and giving my fingerprint again to make sure it was me.  I answered a couple of questions about safety on the road and then faced a chart of about 50 signs, some of which I recognized.  I was asked to identify a couple of them — they were signs that I have never seen here and likely never will.   I probably didn’t get them right.  Not to worry, said my guide.

Round 3 was this week.  I went with my sponsor to a large partly paved sports field, was given my information sheet, and got in line with about 30 others who were waiting to do a driving test on a moto.  My initial response was that I dIdn’t want a permit with a moto license, but the man nearby said, you can’t cross anything off your sheet.  I found out that my sponsor had checked every category (5) on the license application and the first was the moto.  So I watched as each person got on the moto, put on the helmet, and rode it 30 meters in a straight line and then signaled, turned back, and zigzagged between 5 cones back to the start.  For those who didn’t do it well, the man in charge gave a running comedic commentary on their skills.  Some just got on, revved the motor a couple times, and when it was obvious that they were rookies he just said, “That’s it - come back in 2 weeks!”  So when my turn came, having observed carefully, I got on, put on the helmet, worked the clutch to try to engage, but it didn’t work and then the boss said,”OK, thanks!”  He made a point of telling the driving school liaison that I needed more practice, likely for show as he did for the others.  Then we waited about about an hour for the next test.  Not to worry, said the guide.

We formed in 5 lines of 12 or so and waited for the truck to arrive.  It was a small truck with a stick shift and a two-foot side around the bed. They asked me to get in the driver’s seat and everyone else in my row got in the back of the truck.  We were on a huge boulevard about 8 lanes wide, if there had been any lanes.  Next to me was the man who controlled the 2nd clutch and brake - in case I messed up.  Next to the opposite door was the examiner.  He said, put it in gear and go.  So off we went.  “Slowly!  There are guys in the back!”  We rode for 20 feet, he said to shift into 2nd.  I missed on the first attempt but recognized 4th gear immediately and got back into 2nd.  Then they said stop, back up.  So we did that for 25 feet.  Then they said, pull over to the curb and park it.  That was it.  “Next!”  So I hopped out and the next victim jumped in the driver’s seat.

Two days later we went back to the original building and waited for an hour in a large room. When it was my turn I went to the clerk and handed her the paper I had been given when I came in.  I did the fingerprint test again, she worked on the computer for 10 minutes and then handed me the license and said, “Here you go”.

I now have a permis de conduire Ivoirien, classes A,B,C,D, and E.  The class A and B are permanent.  Which means I can come back in 30 years and still use it!  I can also do large deliveries in a truck for the next year.  Just sayin'.  In case you need anything delivered in Côte d'Ivoire - not to worry!

We were staying in Pres. and Sr. Sherman’s apartment just above the mission office.  The Mission Leadership Conference was during the waiting day, so we were invited to participate and enjoyed interacting with these bright young Zone Leaders and Sr. Trainer Leaders.  

Elder and Soeur Solomon (the Office Couple) in their natural habitat

Blessings! Oct 20, 2019

What an amazing weekend of blessings we have had!  It has been the fulfillment of many weeks of work by the members, young missionaries, and the leaders.  As we have said before, civil marriage is the only marriage recognized as legal in Côte d’Ivoire.  Most couples do not get married because the cost is high.  Unfortunately that restricts their baptism into the church, or if they are members, it restricts their ability to receive callings and participate in the church organization. 

This is harvest season for many farmers (of rice, rubber and cocoa) and the time when they have a little extra money.  Several weeks ago we began planning to have a group wedding, and one of the leaders who has contacts in the local government worked out a reduced price to have it done together. 

Friday we were able to be present when 8 couples were married.  It was exciting to see them all dressed up in their finest  and walk with friends from the branch to the sous-préfecture.  

There in a very formal ceremony, the préfet in his uniform reviewed all their documents publicly, gave advice, and then married them - one couple at a time.

A happy couple!

The marriage ceremony

 















Saturday we inaugurated the new baptismal font at the Saioua building, with many of those couples being baptized.  There were in total twenty-two baptisms of mostly adults into the three units that we have in the area.  I commented to the counselor in the district presidency that twenty-two new members was like adding a new branch!  Many of those new members have been attending church for months waiting to be married. They are more knowledgeable than most newly baptized members and will add to the units’ strength immensely.

The candidates in front of the new font

Do not think that all these activities went smoothly or exactly as planned.  Originally the marriages were scheduled for 10 AM, but put back to 1 PM because of a villages’ council meeting taking place at the city level.  Then there was the waiting for everyone to arrive, including the officials.  The first wedding began at 4 PM.  All obstacles were overcome and the blessings were overflowing.

We heard that the party at the branch after the ceremony was very successful but we had to leave at 5 pm to get home only a half hour after dark.  The road home had been washed out in two places by the heavy rains but repaired by log bridges which fortunately held well.  We’ll take the longer route next time.

Crossing the washout

There were more challenges.  Yesterday for example the city water was cut off and the font had to be filled by hauling water in a motorized trike in large barrels and then transferring from the barrels to the font via bucket brigade.  

Filling the font

Today in the three units where the confirmations were performed, we had a total attendance of about 165!  When we first arrived 9 months ago our average attendance in the branch and group (which have now become two branches and a group) was about 75.  We are witnesses to the power of God as the rock cut out of the mountain without hands rolls rapidly forth.

It's not the Tree of Life, but it's very pretty!

Oct 13, 2019

We have been digesting the news and talks from General Conference all this week, and enjoying the study.  We were so happy to hear of a temple planned for Sierra Leone.  When we  were serving in the temple in Accra, there were patrons who came from there occasionally.  Usually they came with the help of the temple patron assistance fund, which is used by the Area Presidency to help leaders and members from remote areas to receive their own ordinances.  The members who came from Sierra Leone were always instructed to only purchase the garment, not the white clothing or ceremonial clothing, since this would likely be their only time to be at a temple.  Soon (2-3 years) they will have their own temple!

In regional news, our mission president received word that he was now responsible for missionary work in Guinea (Conakry) where there are 4 missionaries and a branch.  That Guinea is French-speaking, so it makes sense.  It will take them 7 hours to travel there from the mission home combined driving and flying.  Also there are elders in our mission teaching interested friends in Burkina Faso through the internet  The church isn’t officially recognized there yet no missionaries are assigned. Both countries are 90% Muslim

We went to church in Issia today and saw that attendance in the two branches combined was greater than when there was one branch.  We were approached by an older member after meetings and invited to go with him and the missionaries to his home village, about 8 km north of the city.  He had been teaching many friends and family there about the church, but they needed to see some American missionaries to believe what he was telling them.  So we went and met in a large covered pavilion with about 40 men and many young men.  We presented a short lesson and answered some good questions, then invited them to attend church in Issia next Sunday.  We’ll see what happens.  They were very pleased to see and hear us.

Some of our listeners at the village

Sue’s plantar fasciitis seems to be improving steadily and she has recommenced some walking.  Tom, on the other hand, overdid his exercise somehow and has been dealing with a sore lower back and no exercise this week. 

The guys on our block

We did make a trip to Yamoussoukro again to take an exam for his driving permit.  We’ll likely do that again this week for an actual driving test.  As we navigate this part of the culture, it is becoming more clear that public systems are designed to function based on who you know.  Often processes are not clearly described anywhere and you don’t know how to get something done without the help of another person.  Likely that is due to this society being derived from a tribal system where the chief could help you get things done through his connections.  That is very different from the western perspective where we want everyone to have an equal opportunity regardless of their standing or situation.  There are inherent advantages and disadvantages to both systems, but trying to get something done without the cultural competence here required doesn’t work well.

On the way to Yamoussoukro

Turning seventy was not a traumatic experience for either of us.  There is some inherent respect for 70 year olds that doesn’t exist to the same degree for someone in their 60s.  We celebrated Tom’s birthday with Pres. and Sr. Sherman the night before over some really good apple crisp.  Tom loved getting greetings from close family, distant cousins, old friends, and many acquaintances.  It was fun, but we’ll never turn 70 again!

Walking through the kitchen

October 6, 2019

It has been a simple week, not driving the truck and being confined to our apartment except for walking places.  Pres. Sherman talked to the Stake Pres. in Daloa about giving us something to do for a couple of weeks but no one has contacted us. The only place we tried to go was to District meeting but it was cancelled because no one had the keys to the building. Fortunately the zone leaders and the elders have dropped in so we don’t feel like we are isolated. We are praying that Tom’s license will come in the next week and we can get back out to the villages.  

Woman carrying a sheaf of rice

 













Tom spent some time writing his personal story and doing family history online. He has submitted 700 names to the temples since arriving here. I will finish reading the Book of Mormon in French for the second time this year, in the next couple of days.

Our son Ben and wife Christy were hit by a flying cow [the cow was hit by the car in front of them and flipped onto the engine of their car] activating the airbags. Fortunately, neither of them was badly hurt but supposedly the car is dead.

We were so blessed to see both sessions of General Conference on the computer yesterday and could pull up a bit of the Women’s  Session this morning. Many mentioned Africa and used examples of the faith of the people here.  Elder Holland, in his simple but profound speaking style, testified that Jesus is the meaning of it all and plead with us  to make Him the center of our lives and our service. Sister Harkness followed later with these two thoughts: with our eyes on the Savior, we see who we really are and asked the question “Are we both  a minister and a witness”? There is great emphasis in the Book of Mormon about testifying and being a witness.

I agreed with Elder Vinson’s statement that our sacrifice and our efforts are what matter to the Lord, fascinated by Elder Bednar’s lessons from the cheetahs  but was greatly moved by Sister Alberto’s experiences with mental illness in her family. I am waiting for the printed version to read, but the pain of dealing with emotional problems was written on her face. I read a book during the summer  “Silent Souls Weeping” by Jane Clayson Johnson which helped me understand some of the issues. I want and need to learn more.

This week we will celebrate Tom’s 70th birthday and the half way point of our mission to Cote D’Ivoire. We know the Lord needs us here.  Happy Thanksgiving to all our fellow Canadians!

An interesting bug about 2 inches long

Our hibiscus bush